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Adventure To The Abacos: Short Term Or Extended Cruising From South Florida's East Coast
By Karen Hermanson
An excellent choice for shorter term as well as extended sailing getaways from Fort Lauderdale or Palm Beach are the islands and cays of the Abacos. Just as easy to access across the Gulf Stream as Bimini is, West End on Grand Bahama Island provides a gateway to adventure in the Sea of Abaco.
The bays at either Settlement Point or West End provide a convenient anchorage after an all-day or all-night sail from South Florida. Recent improvements in the marina at West End provide nice facilities for those interested in overnight dockage, a restaurant meal or clearing customs.
The real adventure begins, however, once you enter the Little Bahama Bank at Indian Cay Channel. Indian Cay channel is a narrow, shallow and not very clearly marked corridor to the Abaco cruising grounds. For those entering the Sea of Abaco, even for a short time, I would advise investing in The Cruising Guide to Abaco Bahamas 2002 by Steve Dodge, to accompany other navigational guides and charts you may have. Dodge's guide offers preferable routes, waypoints, anchorages and aids greatly in general decision-making since tropical storms and shifting sands have recently modified many charted routes.
The Western Abaco chain, which lies north of Grand Bahama Island, begins with widely spaced cays and islands, which become more compact in terms of distance between islands as you go eastward. Because the Sea of Abaco is surrounded by islands and cays, you can easily chose to take either a southerly or northerly route going east, circling the chain either clockwise
or counterclockwise in order to sample the largest number of islands and anchorages. In the spring and summer months, the prevailing winds are from the east or southeast, so depending on luck, your timing, or your route, be prepared to motor a bit depending on your selected starting direction.
A stop not to miss is Allans-Pensacola Cay. Not only is the anchorage well protected, but also the beaches found on both the Atlantic and Sea of Abaco sides are postcard-perfect. Another fun feature is the group of "signing trees" found at the end of a lush pathway, adorned with boat memorabilia left by visiting mariners.
While tourist information indicates that good weather reports are available, that is sometimes not the case due to poor VHF reception in the more remote areas of the Abacos. Most reliable (beyond NOAA range) may be tuning in to the Cruisers Net on VHF 68 at 8:15 a.m. Radio Abaco channel 93.5 FM also gives a weather report at 6:00 p.m. but, lacking detail, it may be ill suited for the important business of route planning.
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While some may be privileged with a few weeks to spend in the Abacos, it is possible to get a taste of the Abaco experience from South Florida in as few as five to seven days. For such short trips, an itinerary that includes Great Sale Cay as well as Double Breasted and Allans-Pensacola cays provides protected anchorages (from most directions) along with opportunities for beachcombing, snorkeling and hiking.
A note on provisioning may be in order since many of the islands are remote and do not have any facilities or groceries. This is the beauty of the Abacos. Every day offers an opportunity to find a different oasis for sunbathing, shelling, or snorkeling. Not as easy to find is reasonably priced food. For those spending enough time in the Abacos to warrant re-provisioning or fueling, Marsh Harbour may be the most abundant in terms of fuel, food, and other supply needs. Some
islands do not permit off-loading of trash while other islands accept trash only on certain days. These days and locations are mentioned on CruisersNet, so be good neighbors and comply with local waste restrictions.
Communication is also difficult unless your cellular company has an arrangement with BATELCO for roaming service, or you are fortunate enough to have a SAT phone on board. A three-minute call from a BATELCO pay phone using a credit card cost over $20. You can also buy a BATELCO pay phone card at local grocery stores in $5.00 increments on certain islands.
The key hazards to traveling in the Abacos may be the lack of good weather reporting (given the wide variability of the weather on a daily basis and poor radio reception in certain locations), the shallowness of the water (caution to those with a draft over 5 feet) and the lack of any system of buoyage (take a good GPS along and rely on it as well as visual sighting, and your good sense). Because of the variability in the wind and weather, be prepared to adjust your float plan daily; after all "going with the flow" is a sailor's mantra.For safety in these shallow waters, pay close attention to your guidebook, maps, and depth meter. Short of these precautions, however, the Abacos provide a treasure trove of sailing adventure and lovely anchorages to enjoy the cruising life in close proximity to South Florida.
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