- Local News for Southern Sailors - March 2003 Next StoryAlong the Intracoastal
North Along the Intracoastal in Early Spring — Part I to the Carolinas: Stops Along the Way
By Gretchen Coyle
 Somehow the trip south from New Jersey to Southwest Florida in October seems much easier. We have eased from warm summer to placid fall. A few nights along the Intracoastal might dip into the low 50s or 40s, but then it warms up again as we progress into Georgia. By the time we reach the Okeechobee Waterway, summer is upon us again. Unless you are in a heated cabin, earmuffs and gloves are a necessity. Hats that cover the ears and thermal wear, along with a pair of fur-lined boots, complete the spring wardrobe for sailors. I pack these things on the bottom under our summer clothes for the trip north. Foul weather jackets and pants are a given. My husband and I have both lightweight and lined foul weather gear aboard for different climates.Clewiston, FL One of the nicest places to stay when setting off from the west coast of Florida is the Roland Martin Marina in Clewiston along the Okeechobee Waterway. That is, if your mast is not too high. Check your charts Ð many sailboats must navigate through the Keys adding another few days to your trip. Located behind the Clewiston Lock, the Roland Martin Marina is one of the cleanest I have ever seen. A tiki bar, fully stocked store, and most congenial staff all help to make this extraordinarily well-protected spot enjoyable. In addition, a car from the Clewiston Inn will pick you up at no charge for dinner. Built by the sugar barons in the 1930s, this old-timey spot loaded with photos on the walls has excellent food and does not care how sailors are dressed. If you are interested in the development of the sugar cane industry, you will learn a lot.Florida's IntracoastalWaterway Proceeding north up the Intracoastal from the mouth of the St. Lucie River can be long and monotonous. Civilization is all around with multi million-dollar homes for a few miles followed by 1950s dwellings. Manatee "No Wake" zones are becoming much too common. Yet the beauty of the Florida spring foliage is in full view here. Marinas the whole way up to Daytona are either scarce or filled. Overnight dockage can be hard to find. Once we tied up at a seedy restaurant dock, and when asked if it was safe to remain for the night, the reply was, "Sure honey, got yer cell phone?" The Halifax River Yacht Club in Daytona is a real gem, off the waterway, and full of a hundred years of history. Both the employees and members were kind and helpful, making us feel most welcome. Dinners are served almost every night, and shower and laundry facilities are excellent. We had planned to use our New Jersey Little Egg Harbor Yacht Club card to gain admission, but no one seemed to care. If there is a negative here, it is the fact that a high gate around the club is locked every night, and the sound of motorcycles roaring along can be heard at all hours. Normally we drift towards small, historic spots. Big cities leave us cold. But Jacksonville Harbor is an exception. There is lots of activity here: boatbuilding, commercial boats, pilot boats, and Intracoastal traffic. New blends with old creating an eclectic scene. We have always wanted to cruise the length of the St. John's River. In October, on our trip south, it is too warm and buggy. I wonder about in April? Actually we never have the time in the spring, but it is always on our minds. Fernandina Beach is a restored town on Amelia Island. Filled with Southern hospitality, four-star restaurants, and some of the most magnificent bed and breakfasts I have ever seen, this is a spot to tie up and stay for a day or two. Fernandina Beach Municipal Pier (floating docks) welcomes transients whether it is for a walk around town or a longer visit. Brett's, overlooking the Intracoastal at the municipal pier, and Horizons, in the heart of the historical district, are two of our favorite restaurants. |  Cumberland IslandAND St. Mary's While Fernandina Beach marks the northern end of Florida, St. Mary's marks the southern boundary of Georgia. St. Mary's is a quiet, well protected, and out of the way spot. The Cumberland Island ferry goes back and forth from here, and there is now a Cumberland Island museum. Spring flowers are in bloom in well-maintained gardens. Hiking or exploring Cumberland Island is a must for anyone who likes a little exercise. You are on your own from landing at the Sea Camp dock on the southern end to finding your way around with the help of a small map. If you have a dinghy, anchor and use it. Otherwise, space may not be available; the St. Mary's Ferry takes up almost the whole outside of the dock. Walking shoes or boots are suggested for hiking the island. Most of Cumberland Island is now a National Seashore. After encountering a few of the wild (they seemed rather friendly) horses, we hiked a few miles along the western side of Cumberland until we came upon a small unoccupied ice house now full of artifacts. From there we wound our way east to the remains of the Dungeness mansion. Once home to the Carnegie family, we were lucky to be greeted at the site by Rena Noe, a National Park Service guide. For two hours she recounted stories about both the island and family members. It is mind boggling to hear how the ultra wealthy lived at the beginning of the 1900s. Rena is most knowledgeable Ð she has lived on the island itself for ten years Ð and delights in telling how this beautiful spot was saved from future development. It is well worth spending a day or two hiking this wilderness site with only a few homes and the Greyfield Inn at the northern end. No food or drink is available for the average visitor, so we put trail mix and water in back packs.  In addition to the necessary charts, the following books might be of interest: The Intracoastal Waterway, Norfolk to Miami by Jan and Bill Moelle Cruising Guide to Coastal North Carolina by Claiborne S. Young Cruising Guide to Coastal South Carolinaand Georgia by Claiborne S. Young Narrow Waters by Dee Carstarphen Mid Atlantic Waterway Guide updated yearly |