- Local News for Southern Sailors - February 2003 Next Story
Bahama Cruising
Favorite Sailing Destinations in the Bahamas
By Karen Hermanson
Extending from 50 miles off the southeast coast of Florida to 750 miles in a southeasterly direction, the Bahama Islands rise from the shallow Bahama Banks to provide a wealth of sailing opportunities. There are more than 700 islands and thousands of uninhabited islets along the Bahamian archipelago. So how does one go about selecting a Bahamian sailing destination? To help you decide, we asked several cruisers who have spent time in the Bahamas over the years to share their favorite destinations with our readers. 
As with any sailing itinerary, much depends on the amount of time available, as well as the skills and interests of the captain and crew. In general, however, we find two areas of the Bahamas that clearly stand out in popularity. One is the Abacos, the other the Exumas.
The Abacos, the most northerly group of islands in the Bahamas chain, are a favorite sailing destination for many reasons. Their proximity to Florida permits short itineraries, while the reefs surrounding the Sea of Abaco provide protected passagemaking for crews of all experience levels. Also, the distance between the islands enables a relaxed pace for daytime sailing with time for finding a new anchorage by nightfall. Because there are few designated anchorages in the Abacos, cruisers can enjoy spontaneous and individualized itineraries and a nearly infinite selection of anchorages. While many of the islands in the Abacos are uninhabited, they are interspersed with population centers to allow a good mix of socializing, sight-seeing and provisioning.
Jim Gordon has been sailing from South Florida for over 50 years and has spent the last few winters in the Bahamas aboard his 46-foot Morgan, Green Flash. While Jim admits that deciding on a favorite location is difficult, his preference is for Marsh Harbour in the Abacos. Marsh Harbour (GPS 26ƒ.33.52'N, 77ƒ.04.11'W) is the principal settlement on Great Abaco, situated at the midpoint of this boomerang-shaped island. Jim likes to dock his boat at one of the many well-equipped Marinas there; however, cruisers can easily find a comfortable spot to anchor in the harbor. In addition to some good restaurants, groceries, laundry, and most amenities, Marsh Harbour is also a good home base for short excursions, including Hopetown's lighthouse on Elbow Cay, Pete's Pub in Little Harbour, and the beautiful beaches of nearby cays.
Jim's itinerary to Marsh Harbour includes a night crossing from Fort Lauderdale to West End, Freeport, Bahamas, and directly on to Great Sale Cay by early evening. After a good night's rest at Great Sale, he suggests heading to Green Turtle Cay to clear customs rather than stopping on day one to clear custom's in West End). With only a half-day's sail to Marsh Harbor from Green Turtle, Jim suggests enjoying the island's fishing village charm before heading out to reach Marsh Harbour by nightfall.
For those who prefer the more remote and uninhabited outposts, the Exumas are another preferred sailing destination. The Exumas extend for more than 125 miles in a southeasterly direction beginning 40 miles southeast of New Providence. About a one-day sail from Nassau, the Exumas require more time in the itinerary when embarking from Fort Lauderdale.
Ruth Richard, membership coordinator at the Seven Seas Cruising Association, has cruised through the Bahamas several times and is planning another trip this month. Where will she be headed? Ruth plans to sail her Vancouver 36, Last Unicorn, to Allan's Cay in the Exumas. For a short vacation, Ruth finds Allan's to be a rustic, but beautiful, hideaway.
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Ruth enjoys the company of the friendly iguanas that inhabit the island, tame enough to take food out of her hand. Other activities include snorkeling, viewing the plentiful conch, and walking along the beautiful beaches. Possible excursions within a day's sail of Allan's Cay are Normans Cay (24ƒ.37.40'N, 76ƒ.47.35'W), with a downed airplane in the middle of that bay, and Highbourn Cay (24ƒ.42.12'N, 76ƒ.47.95'W) with a nice beach and marina.
From Fort Lauderdale, Ruth leaves early in the morning, heading to the cut between Gun Cay and North Cat Cay. She suggests that sailboats anchor for the night behind Gun Cay. Head through Larks Two Fathoms Bridge Channel for the 18-hour sail to Chub Cay (25ƒ.24.35'N, 77ƒ.54.64'W) to clear customs. The following day takes you about 40 miles to Nassau. Allan's Cay (24ƒ.45.00'N, 76ƒ.52.10'W) is a one-day sail from Nassau.
The anchorage on Allan's Cay is actually between Allan's and Leaf Cay. There is a sand bar in the middle of the anchorage, however, so while it is not the easiest to negotiate, Ruth assures us that it is delightful and worth the effort. For navigation through the Exumas, Ruth suggests investing in the hand-drawn and often-updated Explorer Charts (available at nautical stores). Due to the remoteness of these primarily uninhabited islands, Ruth suggests traveling totally provisioned.
Pam Wall, outfitting manager at West Marine on State Route 84, has traveled the world in her Freya 39, Kandarik. Since Pam conducts seminars for West Marine on cruising the Bahamas, we were interested in her favorite Bahamian sailing destination. Pam selected Warderick Wells Cay, about in the middle of the Exuma chain.
Warderick Wells Cay lies within the Exuma Land and Sea Park. There is a turquoise plot of deep water between two pure white sandbars that make up the anchorage north of the park headquarters. You cannot anchor there, but park rangers have set up inexpensive moorings (about $15 a night) that sailors can reserve by calling the Sea Park on CH 16 sometime during the day of arrival. Alternatively, sailors can become park members for $50, which provides a free mooring for 3 days as well as the satisfaction of contributing to the preservation of the park and this beautiful area. The ranger will give you a number, and moorings are available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Pam describes the locale as one with a ³Galapagos attitude² with abundant sea life such as conch, crayfish, snapper, grouper, turbot and other species. She reports great snorkeling since the area is protected.
Another feature of this destination is the ranger station itself, since it offers a great view along with the opportunity to purchase books, maps, dive books, and tee shirts.
Another excursion on the island is Booby Hill. This is the highest point on the island where a shrine of sorts has been erected by visiting mariners. Mementos decorate the shrine with names of boats and people who have visited the island.
Other activities include exploring the island area by dinghy as well as by foot. Paths on the island have been marked with yellow paint, and maps are available in the ranger station. The rocky remains of an old settlement, now uninhabited, can be found. There is also a beautiful, and often deserted, anchorage with five to six mooring buoys near the southern part of the island.
Pam's itinerary to Warderick Wells Cay from Fort Lauderdale includes a night passage to Chub Cay to clear customs and an overnight stay in its protected harbor. On day two, travel the 35 or so miles to Nassau, spending the night at Hurricane Hole Marina on Paradise Island. Extending a stay in Paradise Island, the next day provides an opportunity to check out the Atlantis Resort with its architectural beauty and other sights. Leave on day three for Highbourn Cay in the northern Exumas. Day four can be spent sailing to the Hawksbill Cay area in the Exumas and on to Warderick the next day.
While deep draft boats may face some navigational challenges throughout the Exumas and Abacos, the boats of those interviewed had drafts of six feet or more. It is important, under any circumstance, to have updated maps and local guidebooks (such as those mentioned in the article). With deeper draft boats, sailors may need to enter channels on high tide. Generally, those who provided information found navigation to be occasionally challenging but worth the effort given the rewards of the area.
GPS readings are approximate and for general map location only.
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