Elsewhere in the marina, lingering cruising boats from more than a dozen countries could be found firmly tied to the quays with phone service, electric, water, and cable TV hookups running across their decks.
      One paranoid sailor (who didn't make the trip) suggested that the Cubans would mug Americans in Havana because of "Elian" situation. Perhaps, if you consider being accosted to buy cigars or eat a bountiful lunch in someone's home being mugged. Whatever the politics between U.S. and Cuban bureaucrats, the people who live in Cuba seem to better understand the situation than most Americans. Havana, and likely all of Cuba, is changing rapidly despite the U.S. blockade of normal trade relationships.

Old car...new friend in Habana Viejo

      Within strolling distance of the new cruise ship terminal--busy with a huge white vessel of unknown origins--were art galleries, museums, a perfumery, and countless refurbished hotels, cafes, and small shops. Contrary to the popular line in the U.S. media, the people in these businesses were not solely tourists. There was even a pet grooming salon on one of the most popular narrow boulevards in old Havana... and a smiling long-haired doggie getting pampered in the shop window. Do you think the pooch came over on the cruise ship?
      News item: Cuba Cruise Corporation will offer regularly scheduled departures to Cuba that are legally accessible to U.S. citizens. Beginning in mid-November, the MV La Habana will take passengers to Havana Harbor from Nassau, Bahamas. Robert F. Kennedy, Jr. is scheduled to be aboard for the maiden voyage of this Canadian travel venture Nov. 16. For details, call (800) 387-1387 or visit www.cubacruising.com on the Internet.
      Throughout urban Havana there were signs of change as modern hotels have sprouted along the route into the city, and new Peugeot cars and trucks seem to be the official vehicles for taxis and tourist buses in sharp contrast to the preponderance of 1950s American cars, which dominate the streets.
      Want to phone home? Prepaid phone cards in various denominations--looking like credit cards but decorated with historic scenes in Cuba--can be purchased throughout the city or at the marina. Modern phones with card readers could be found inside and outside the marina property and throughout downtown Havana. The cost was less than $2 per minute and required no operator assistance. Perhaps signifying a modest improvement in the economy, the foreign-built department store in Havana was filled with locals and tourists. Street merchants have taken over complete blocks of open areas near the cathedral where the Pope spoke. They are all Cuban entrepreneurs ... men and women with small businesses.


Local youth sails in the marina canals.
      As a new visitor to Cuba, first-time bluewater sailor Christine Svenson had heard endless tales about the country, but the reality had to be experienced. "The people seemed honest, warm, and unafraid to smile or look at you eye-to-eye. Havana is a treasure. The buildings are each unique--some awaiting reawakening--some perfect jewels. The people... their joy and their kindness... were part of the treasure. I wanted to spend much more time in Havana."
      It would be naive to suggest that none of the visitors spent a dollar in Cuba, and any dollars spent would represent a violation of current U.S. laws for most Americans (those not entitled to one of the exemptions to the "trading with the enemy" act which governs U.S./Cuba policy). Certain goods, classified as informational materials, could be brought back to the United States according to the regulations. Included in that exemption would be nautical charts, books, and recorded music on tapes or CDs. Most other expenditures likely would be considered violations of U.S. laws relative to Cuba.
      A majority of the U.S.-based boats returned to ports along the east and west coasts of Florida in early June. Despite the concerns about government action upon their return, none of the returning sailors reported any problems to Southwinds.

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A historical perspective
     It was 70 years ago that a die-hard fleet of 11 wooden sailboats raced out of Tampa Bay bound for Havana, Cuba. In that first formal race to Cuba, George S. "Gidge" Gandy of the St. Petersburg Yacht Club and Commodoro Rafael Posso of the Havana Yacht Club launched a classic ocean race which survived one world war and, eventually, the revolution in Cuba. The original Southern Ocean Racing Conference (SORC), which offered offshore racing around the southern tip of Florida and into the Bahamas, replaced the Cuba race until the Tampa Bay to Havana format was revived in 1996 by three independent sailors from local sailing clubs.


Historic elegance inside the Capitolia.
      There are no yacht clubs involved in the current race to Cuba, but with more than 200 boats participating in each of the previous two years, the now titled Havana Cup regatta has revived a piece of history. It isn't hard to suggest that the direction of current Cuba-U.S. relations are still twisting in a gyroscopic tizzy, but hopefully time and common sense will allow this friendly relationship between the sailors in Cuba and the U.S. to continue.
     Ocean Racing Ventures president Jim Duncan said he is continuing to work with Treasury officials with hopes of resuming the official Havana Cup event later in the year. Given the positive experience of the unofficial Havana Cup sailors, this event could easily draw more than 100 boats in the future without a formal U.S. organizer.