Cuba - a cruiser's diary

By Ralph and Suzi Talbott

In 1994, Tievoli sailed to Cuba as part of the Sarasota-Havana yacht race. The owners returned six months later, and now five years later visited Cuba again. The following log shares some of their experiences and contrasts the changes they saw from 1994.

Here we are in Marina Hemingway on New Year's Eve, 1999, sipping cervezas and Cuba Libres at the Copa Cabana, with its ocean pool fed by the waves of the Florida Straits. There we met Nelson Pinero, a professor at Havana University, who helped us reach the Tropicana Cabaret to celebrate the new year.

All this travelling is done on our 20-inch folding bikes, carrying us about eight miles from the marina.

We had left Fort Myers, FL, in late December with a good weather forecast, which turned into five-foot seas on the overnight trip to the Dry Tortugas. From Rebecca Shoals to the entrance of Marina Hemingway there was no wind or noticeable Gulf Stream. We followed another boat into the harbor on December 30 at noon. It took four hours to check in with 11 different officials coming aboard Tievoli.

All of the officials welcomed us to Cuba and either drank a beer on board or packed them in their briefcase to take home. The agriculture lady insisted that our eggs were not up to Cuban standards and had us hard boil them immediately. (The U.S. agriculture officials do the same to boats coming into the U.S.) The bananas and fresh vegetables were okay to keep. We then moved to a dockage and had electricity connected, which was not grounded. I insisted it be grounded and the man connected it to a light post. Ole'!

After a long night's sleep, we met our friends from years ago and had coffee and a visit from them. They had not yet received our letter mailed six weeks earlier, telling them of our plans. They were happy to see us, but have only a 25-year-old beat up Fiat to drive us around. It needs tires badly and has no spare so we have to ride our little bikes until we can locate a vehicle. We gave them some Folgers coffee and some beer for their New Year's celebration and some oil for their car. They said detergent-type motor oil doesn't work because it cleans out the carbon, and the car will not run.

While trying to find the Tropicana Cabaret, we happened to meet professor Pinero and spent the afternoon discussing the Cuban situation with him at the Tropicana. The situation is felt to be hopeless here, because of the political clout the Miami Cubans have in the U.S., keeping the embargo in place, and keeping Fidel in power.

Henry, Gloria, and little HenryTogares - our friends from five years ago - visited and also discussed the politics of the U.S. versus Cuba, and especially Elian (in Miami). Little Henry, who is 15, was told school was closed one day and was directed to attend the rally for Elian at the revolution square. He later gave Suzi the T-shirt he wore at the rally with Elian's picture on it.

After the rally he was biking home and was struck by a truck and almost killed. After extensive medical treatment and days in the hospital, it was determined that he had an overgrown spleen, which was good to discover, but there were no internal injuries as a result of the accident.

We were told that when the government wanted to have a rally for Elian, all workers were told to attend if they wanted to be paid for that day.

The New Year
After a day celebrating, we welcomed in the New Year on Tievoli, and soon went to bed. New Year's Day was lazy doing some boat chores, then Nelson and his son Fabio came to visit aboard Tievoli. They rode their bikes to the marina. Fabio is 14 and in the ninth year of school...very astute and interested in mechanical engineering. He knows a little English and has a very positive outlook. Cuba will some day be what her young people are today. We discussed politics at length along with many Cuba Libres and cervezas. We later went for two pizzas (at $40) and gave Fabio a small inexpensive ratchet tool set. The excitement in his face was awesome. We learned he slept with it under his pillow.

A marina security guard watched over Tievoli, and we wondered if he was guarding or spying. A bribe was necessary for Nelson and Fabio to come aboard Tievoli. Naturally we had gifts for them to take back home, and we were invited to their home for dinner. So poor by our standards, yet so willing to share what they have with us.

Many tourists are here...especially Canada, Mexico, Germany, Britain, and the U.S. Half of the approximately 200 boats at Marina Hemingway were U.S.-flagged.

We rode about 20 miles today on our bikes, riding down Fifth Avenue to meet with Nelson. Along the way we spotted a bicycle carrying a 12-foot marlin across the back. The owner was very proud, and many people stopped to admire it.

Nelson was our guide by bike into old Havana. We rode down the Malec-n into an easterly wind to Havana Harbor. At the U.S. Embassy (formally known as the U.S. Interest Section) no flags fly. We stopped to take pictures of the complex and the many Cuban guards surrounding it.

A stage for an "Elian" rally had been built nearby, and many signs and flags had been erected along with loud speakers. Nelson said he did not work the next day due to the rally, but he and his sons were not participating.

We watched an Italian cruise ship enter the harbor and saw the throngs of tourists come ashore. We went to the Cathedral Plaza for lunch and a Mohito (rum drink) and watched the tourists. Five years ago there were no tourists in Havana, but now it is very popular. Along the way we priced cigars. Twenty-five Cohiba Lanceros were over $300. A five-pack was $60 in one shop. So far no cigar bargains. Five years ago a box was $45 and $15 on the black market.

Being Sunday, many Cubans were out on the streets doing what everyone does on a Sunday. Enjoying life. Nelson invited us to his home for dinner, and we rode our bikes there. He, his wife, mother, and two sons live in a three-bedroom home built in 1949. It is stucco with a tile roof and tile floorsÉvery nice, and kept up.

His wife, Lisette, is a child psychologist. Their oldest son Nelson Jr. is studying to be a chef, and 14-year-old Fabio is mechanically talented and loves all the old American cars. We had homemade rice wine, pork, yucca, tomatoes, lettuce, and black rice for dinner. Delicious, but not their usual fare.

While we were there, powdered milk was delivered at a cost of $1 a pound. Nelson's salary is $19 a month.

We had an enjoyable visit and discussed all aspects of Cuban and American life. Fabio insisted we take some old Cuban coins, which he had saved. They were dated 1919 and 1953, and he had some current but rare coins such as a two peso coin. We bought a 1933 medal at a market and were surprised to learn that it was a medal honoring Batista, the dictator prior to Fidel.

We left about nine that evening with Nelson guiding us half way back to the marina. Some street lights were on, many cars had no head or tail lights, and some streets were very dark. We rode through an area of diplomat's homes...very beautiful estates.

Back on the boat, we listen to either Voice of America or the BBC, depending on the time of day. Everything else here on the airwaves is in Spanish.

Old Havana is now crowded with tourists. There are many shops, restaurants and cafeterias (small local bars). The buildings are being refurbished on the outside, but we don't know if the interiors were also being refurbished. In 1994, we were the only tourists and now were just part of the throngs.

We get weather from the Waterway Cruising Club ham radio net or Radio Telex from Miami, which we can print out, study, and share.

We arranged to have laundry done and looked for a rental car for a couple of days. We rode bikes to Enrique Togares' house for a lunch of rice, beans, sweet potatoes with fish, and chicken. The rice and beans were delicious. Henry has renters from Toronto, Canada - Angelo Bono (of Italian origin), who manufactures vials for injectable medicines. Angelo has invested in a condo of about 800 square feet for $80,000, which he hopes will triple in value when the embargo is lifted. Unfortunately, most Americans cannot yet invest here. He will get a temporary citizenship when his condo is complete. Angelo also joined a golf club (nine holes) where the diplomats play. The membership is $80 with monthly dues of $40.

Later, Enrique Jr. gave Suzi a gift: a T-shirt with a picture of Elian and the slogan "send him home." The shirt was given to Enrique Jr. when his school attended the rally. He suggested that Suzi should wear it in Miami...

Look for part two of this report in the April issue of Southwinds.